{"id":2479,"date":"2022-03-22T08:57:04","date_gmt":"2022-03-22T07:57:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/?p=2479"},"modified":"2022-03-22T08:57:25","modified_gmt":"2022-03-22T07:57:25","slug":"a-way-of-life","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/2022\/03\/22\/a-way-of-life\/","title":{"rendered":"A way of life"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"

Caf\u00e9 Gij\u00f3n. \u00a9 \u00c1lvaro L\u00f3pez del Cerro<\/p><\/div>\n

A large part of Madrid\u2019s history<\/strong> has been witnessed by the marble tabletops of its coffee shops<\/strong> which, since the start of the 19th century, have enriched cultural life in the capital by hosting regular philosophical debates. Many others have followed suit, and it\u2019s time to pay them a visit.<\/p>\n

\n
\"\"

Caf\u00e9 Manuela. \u00a9\u00c1lvaro L\u00f3pez del Cerro<\/p><\/div>\n

\u201cI go out for a coffee, and I sit on the sofas, and I bask in the dim glow of gas lamps,\u201d said Ram\u00f3n G\u00f3mez de la Serna, writer and journalist of the Spanish avant-garde movement. He was also the founder of the tertulia<\/em>, a type of open philosophical debates that, back in the day, were held at Caf\u00e9 del Pombo, one of the many establishments that rose to fame in Madrid at the start of the 19th century. These caf\u00e9s were successors of the former botiller\u00edas <\/em>\u2013 small businesses that sold drinks and ice creams and were initially conceived as places of transit but quickly become meeting points for the exchange of conversations. Soon coffee shops with tables and chairs where patrons could sit and talk more comfortably began to pop up, many of which mimicked the style of palatial drawing rooms and were lit with newly installed gas lamps. El Pombo could be found close to Puerta del Sol. But there were others, such as Caf\u00e9 de Levante, Caf\u00e9 del Pr\u00edncipe, Caf\u00e9 del Suizo, and Caf\u00e9 de Fornos, all of which shared a passion for coffee and literature. Today you\u2019ll find only two still standing; however, there are many more that have opened their doors in the spirit of their predecessors. And that\u2019s where we\u2019re headed!<\/p>\n

CAF\u00c9 GIJ\u00d3N<\/b><\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\n
\"\"

\u00a9 \u00c1lvaro L\u00f3pez del Cerro<\/p><\/div>\n

With its brown marble fa\u00e7ade<\/strong>, wooden finishes and three large windows, this coffeehouse is one of the capital\u2019s greatest icons and a lasting reminder of former times in which places just like this would see writers and intellectuals get together to put the world to rights. Caf\u00e9 Gij\u00f3n opened its doors on 15 May 1888 thanks to the perseverance of Mr Gumersindo Garc\u00eda who nostalgically baptised his new business with the name of the city where he was born.<\/p>\n

\"\"

\u00a9 \u00c1lvaro L\u00f3pez del Cerro<\/p><\/div>\n

Today this historical location is still home to its original black marble tables and some decorative elements from the days of its philosophical debates, such as its burgundy and ivory-tiled floor. Customers would head to Gij\u00f3n after the theatre to discuss politics, bullfighting or any other current event. Benito P\u00e9rez Gald\u00f3s<\/strong>, Santiago Ram\u00f3n y Cajal<\/strong>, and Ram\u00f3n Mar\u00eda del Valle-Incl\u00e1n<\/strong>, who loved the terrace area, were just some of the caf\u00e9\u2019s regulars. Not forgetting Federico Garc\u00eda Lorca, Salvador Dal\u00ed and Luis Bu\u00f1uel, and groundbreaking women like Maruja Mallo, Mar\u00eda Blanchar, and Celia G\u00e1mez.<\/p>\n

\"\"

\u00a9 \u00c1lvaro L\u00f3pez del Cerro<\/p><\/div>\n

Gij\u00f3n was where people would go in search of inspiration, and it was also frequented by the likes of Gerardo Diego, Camilo Jos\u00e9 Cela and Francisco Umbral. Another regular was actor, director and writer Fernando Fern\u00e1n G\u00f3mez<\/strong>, who founded a literary prize named after the caf\u00e9 itself. The coffee shop is still open for business today, and still retains vestiges of its past despite undergoing renovation on various occasions. In 1949, the architect Carlos Arniches Mol\u00f3, son of sainete<\/em> opera writer Carlos Arniches, substituted the gas lamps for electric lighting and installed oak wood panelling on the walls. He wanted to add a touch of modernity to keep up with newer coffee shops that were opening in the city, none of which have taken Gij\u00f3n\u2019s place.<\/p>\n

CAF\u00c9 COMERCIAL<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"

\u00a9 \u00c1lvaro L\u00f3pez del Cerro<\/p><\/div>\n

On many occasions the revolving door at Caf\u00e9 Comercial \u2013 which first opened on 21\u00a0March 1887 \u2013 welcomed Antonio Machado<\/strong>, who had a table reserved exclusively for him. The poet was one of the caf\u00e9\u2019s regulars, as were Edgar Neville, Enrique Jardiel Poncela, Blas de Otero, Gabriel Celaya, and Gloria Fuertes. It was renowned not only for its philosophical debates, but also for its chess club, which was founded in a corner of the establishment\u2019s first floor next to the pool table bought by owner Arturo Contreras Sep\u00falveda, who acquired Caf\u00e9 Comercial in 1909.<\/p>\n

\"\"

\u00a9 \u00c1lvaro L\u00f3pez del Cerro<\/p><\/div>\n

The establishment\u2019s first owner was Antonio G\u00f3mez Fern\u00e1ndez, who gave it its name and installed the intricately decorated wooden artesonado <\/em>ceiling. Even in its early days it was an elegant location, and the perfect place to host bandurria, <\/em>piano, violin and cello concerts. To this day music is still as important at Caf\u00e9 Comercial, which has seen a second lease of life after closing in 2015 and reopening two years later. It now boasts a lively terrace<\/strong> area next to the local newsstand, which has served its customers since 1984. The coffeehouse still retains many of its original decorative pieces, in addition to some newer ones that are here to stay. Among which, the inspiring quote: \u201cpara ser hay que estar<\/em>\u201d (\u201cto be one has to learn the art of being\u201d).<\/p>\n

EL ESPEJO NOUVEAU<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"

\u00a9 \u00c1lvaro L\u00f3pez del Cerro<\/p><\/div>\n

This well-known coffeehouse, a stone\u2019s throw away from Caf\u00e9 Gij\u00f3n, is not as old as it may seem. It first opened its doors in 1978 with d\u00e9cor that evokes Parisian caf\u00e9s<\/strong> of the early 19th century, perhaps to compensate for Madrid never having had its own authentic Art Nouveau bar. Its striking pavilion, with stunning floor-to-ceiling windows and glass chandeliers, is both elegant and charming, as is its terrace garden, which is the ideal sport for breakfast or afternoon tea overlooking the Spanish National Library.<\/p>\n

CAF\u00c9 DE RUIZ<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"

\u00a9 \u00c1lvaro L\u00f3pez del Cerro<\/p><\/div>\n

Back in the 70s, long before vintage and retro d\u00e9cor made their comeback, the neighbourhood of Malasa\u00f1a<\/strong> saw a new style of coffee shops emerge. Their design was reminiscent of the 19th century caf\u00e9s which had breathed new life into Madrid\u2019s social scene by holding philosophical debates. At their heart was a passion for culture and the mission to provide a space for customers to chat and converse over a cup of coffee. Many of these coffeehouses were decked out in wooden panelling, just like this one founded by a group of friends next to the Plaza del Dos de Mayo<\/strong>. Today, under new ownership, it still retains relics of its beginnings, including its original mirrors and round tables. Their specialties include the White Russian, a cocktail made with coffee liqueur.<\/p>\n

CAF\u00c9 MANUELA<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"

\u00a9 \u00c1lvaro L\u00f3pez del Cerro<\/p><\/div>\n

Since 1979, this coffee shop in the heart of Malasa\u00f1a has been an advocate for cultural awareness in the capital. Through its doors have passed the likes of Pedro Almod\u00f3var, Javier Krahe, Carmen Mart\u00edn Gaite, Manuel Pi\u00f1a, and Chicho S\u00e1nchez Ferlosio, some on more than one occasion, when Madrid\u2019s Movida<\/em><\/strong> movement was in full swing. Conversations would go on until the early hours, just like they would in the very coffee shops from times gone by that Caf\u00e9 Manuela and its d\u00e9cor evoke. Founded by Juan Mantrana Goyanes and known by everyone as La Manuela, this coffee shop was an advocate for social events and hosted many a concert, poetry reading and exhibition. Today Jes\u00fas Guerrero is at its helm, striving to maintain its original essence. You can\u2019t miss its red fa\u00e7ade.<\/p>\n

AJENJO CAF\u00c9<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"

\u00a9 \u00c1lvaro L\u00f3pez del Cerro<\/p><\/div>\n

In the words of those who manage this local coffee shop in the neighbourhood of Malasa\u00f1a: \u201cCaf\u00e9 Ajenjo is like stepping back in time to those days when children would roll hoops in the streets and no one had a telephone or a TV at home.\u201d Despite being established in 1978, this time machine will take you straight back to the 19th century. Low marble tables<\/strong>, its wood-panelled bar counter and walls, an old-style cash register, old photographs, and dim lighting add the finishing touches to this quiet spot.<\/p>\n

CAF\u00c9 DE BEL\u00c9N<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"

\u00a9 \u00c1lvaro L\u00f3pez del Cerro<\/p><\/div>\n

Caf\u00e9 Bel\u00e9n opened its doors in 1983, and since then has become a favourite spot among the residents of Madrid\u2019s Chueca<\/strong> neighbourhood. The caf\u00e9 closed in 2014, but a group of friends came to its rescue and reopened it after minimal renovation work. You\u2019ll still find its original hydraulic tiled floor, but the walls are now blue. Open since April 2015, it still serves its famous cocktails, organic teas and great coffee. A coffee shop with a warm and welcoming atmosphere, which often hosts exhibitions.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A large part of Madrid\u2019s history has been witnessed by the marble tabletops of its coffee shops which, since the start of the 19th century, have enriched cultural life in the capital by hosting regular philosophical debates. Many others have followed suit, and it\u2019s time to pay them a visit.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":2494,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[3],"tags":[278,36,24],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2479"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2479"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2479\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2499,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2479\/revisions\/2499"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2494"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2479"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2479"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2479"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}