{"id":2599,"date":"2023-05-09T10:11:52","date_gmt":"2023-05-09T09:11:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/?p=2599"},"modified":"2023-05-09T10:11:52","modified_gmt":"2023-05-09T09:11:52","slug":"all-the-flavour-of-madrid","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/2023\/05\/09\/all-the-flavour-of-madrid\/","title":{"rendered":"All the flavour of Madrid"},"content":{"rendered":"
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H Emblem\u00e1tico<\/p><\/div>\n

In a month steeped in tradition<\/strong>, we review some of the new-style tabernas and bistros with great atmosphere that are putting a modern spin on Madrid\u2019s most celebrated dishes.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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\"\"<\/strong><\/span><\/div>\n
Fortunata<\/strong>, one of Benito P\u00e9rez Gald\u00f3s\u2019s most famous female characters, lived\u2014albeit temporarily\u2014on Calle de Tabernillas<\/strong>, the same street which many years later would be home to Joaqu\u00edn Sabina<\/strong>, another fantastic narrator of all that happens and has happened in Madrid. Located next to Plaza de Puerta de Moros in the neighbourhood of La Latina, the street\u2019s name translates to \u201cLittle Taverns\u201d and owes itself to the many tabernas<\/i> found there as early as the 16th century, heirs to the wine shops that were common in the area under Arab rule. Two of the most popular were run by Andr\u00e9s Rodr\u00edguez and Tom\u00e1s Gonz\u00e1lez. The latter had a famous sign in his establishment which proclaimed \u201cthe taberna <\/i>opens when I get here and closes when I leave\u201d. You\u2019ll have to head to Barrio de las Letras (Literary Quarter), however, to visit the oldest one still operating in our city: Taberna Antonio S\u00e1nchez<\/strong>, which dates back to 1787. It\u2019s impossible to understand Madrid\u2019s history without considering its tascas<\/i>, or cosy taverns, with their fantastic atmosphere\u2014\u201cthere\u2019s some room in the back!\u201d\u2014and iconic dishes like tripe, oxtail and cod fritters. It might be a new era for Madrid\u2019s gastronomy, but the essential flavours still remain the same. <\/span><\/div>\n
Tradition is still in fashion<\/span><\/div>\n

LA RETASCA<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

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\u201cIf you\u2019ve had a bad day, you\u2019re in the right place<\/strong>. It can only get better from here on out\u201d. This quirky message welcomes visitors to La Retasca, which, as its name suggests, pays tribute to Madrid\u2019s traditional tascas<\/em>. Located just a stone\u2019s throw away from El Retiro Park<\/strong>, its chef, Juanjo L\u00f3pez, made a name for himself at La Tasquita de Enfrente. Here, he plays around with nostalgia, bringing back the flavours, smells, sounds and ambience of the past, all with a modern twist to suit current tastes. Tuna and potato salad, croquettes, pig\u2019s ear, the \u201cCapel\u201d potato omelette made with lard and other dishes such as gildas<\/em> (pickled pepper, olive and anchovy skewers), marinated anchovies and calamari sandwiches make up a menu of casual fare designed for sharing. \u201cWe\u2019re a very busy bar. We work unhurriedly, but steadily\u201d, they say. The aim is for everyone to feel like they\u2019re at home.<\/p>\n

EL LINCE<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

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May, a month steeped in tradition, is a great time to remember some of the dishes that have been part of Madrid\u2019s culinary heritage for centuries, like gallinejas<\/em>, the deep-fried small intestines of a lamb, or entresijos<\/em>, its abdominal wall. Elevating offal to distinction is something Javier Est\u00e9vez<\/strong> achieved at the helm of the Michelin-starred restaurant La Tasquer\u00eda. El Lince is his second establishment, a tablecloth-free taberna <\/em>with tables and a bar with high stools, where the food is scrumptious whether you order a small platter\u2014cured meat croquettes, tuna and potato salad on crispy bread, potato omelette stewed in tripe sauce\u2014or a hearty option like lentil and vegetable stew or pickled Iberian pork tongue and foie gras<\/em>. Looking for more typical Madrid flavours? There\u2019s also grilled pig\u2019s ear with spicy paprika, lime and Taj\u00edn sauce. Those in need of fruit salts to aid their digestion should try the star cocktail: \u201cBicarbonato\u201d.<\/p>\n

H EMBLEM\u00c1TICO<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

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For years, Restaurante Hevia served the best tigres<\/em> in Madrid. So, what\u2019s a tigre<\/em><\/strong>? It\u2019s a tapa that never fails to please: stuffed, breaded, fried mussels. Now that the owners of that excellent restaurant in Barrio de Salamanca<\/strong> have opened this traditional-style bar, it was inevitable that the popular aperitivo<\/em> would become the menu\u2019s most sought-after option. But there are other delicious offerings to try: torreznos<\/em> (deep-fried pork belly), garlic prawns, anchovies in vinegar, tuna and potato salad, and patatas bravas<\/em>, which the bar serves sliced rather than diced, with an addictive sauce that\u2019s a little bit spicy. More substantial dishes round out the menu\u2014how about beef meatballs with fried potato concasse?\u2014and a dish of the day is cooked fresh from Monday to Thursday. With a bit of luck, you\u2019ll be able to sample the brothy oxtail rice or the pork cheeks.<\/p>\n

CASA FELISA<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

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Unconditional love for good cooking.<\/strong> You can feel it in the air at this restaurant which gives a particularly warm welcome to diners who get a gleam in their eyes or whose mouths water when they\u2019re served their favourite dishes. New and old approaches to Spanish culinary tradition, particularly that of Madrid, come together in a menu with starters like cod fritters with black garlic mayonnaise or an assortment of truly delicious offerings called \u201cNo weird creations here\u201d, among which are some outstanding Iberian ham croquettes. For \u201cold-fashioned folks\u201d, try the warm wild pickled partridge with multicoloured beetroot, and for fans of \u201cwell-fried\u201d food, don\u2019t miss the huevos estrellados<\/em> (fried potatoes capped with fried egg and other toppings). Leave room for dessert: favourites include a selection of cheeses from Madrid served with quince and nuts, or the torrija<\/em> (Spain\u2019s answer to French toast) with vanilla ice cream.<\/p>\n

CELSO Y MANOLO<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

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The Zamora siblings<\/strong> arrived on Calle de la Libertad with one mission: \u201cto preserve its spirit as a traditional tasca<\/em>where people eat good food and get a warm welcome\u201d. It was no easy task. The previous owners, Celso and Manolo, not only lent their names to the establishment but also worked behind its marble bar for 50 years, expertly serving portions of tripe and cod, anchovies, potato omelette and glasses of beer. But the brother-and-sister team have succeeded! This taberna<\/em> of note in our city features fantastic decor, like the original terrazzo floor, minimalist stools, sand tones on the walls and marvellous wicker sculptures by artisan Javier S\u00e1nchez Medina. If you\u2019re wondering what to order, you can\u2019t go wrong with the tuna and potato salad or the chicken wings. There are also classic Madrid sandwiches steeped in history, such as the steak or calamari options<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

CASA ORELLANA<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

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This restaurant in the heart of the Las Salesas neighbourhood<\/strong> serves its huevos rotos<\/em> (fried potatoes topped with fried egg) with bluefin tuna, and its calamari sandwich on a soft bread roll with roasted garlic mayonnaise. Chef Guillermo Salazar<\/strong> reinterprets time-honoured traditions and flavours. Take note: dipping your bread is accepted! The bar and high tables are key elements of this space that serves food non-stop and is the ideal spot to enjoy a vermouth or wine along with fantastic tapas at any time of day. Options include eggs stuffed with tuna, sea bass macerated in garlic, tuna and potato salad with a homemade pickle, or the Gilda Orellana; their pickled pepper, olive and anchovy skewers. As for more substantial fare, see the selection of stews cooked over a low flame, including a true classic: tripe, leg and snout. For dessert, the torrija<\/em> with turr\u00f3n<\/em> (almond nougat) ice cream is a hit!<\/p>\n

TILDA NEOTABERNA CASTIZA<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

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Calamari sandwich on brioche<\/i> with black yuzu<\/i> alioli<\/i><\/strong>, rocoto pepper patatas bravas<\/i>, cod fritters with alioli<\/i> made with aj\u00ed amarillo chili, oxtail stewed in mole sauce with mashed sweet potato… Shall we go on? Your best bet is to visit this ultra-modern taberna<\/i> that gives a new twist to classic Madrid dishes; the sort that might be made by your grandmother, but also by a friend who\u2019s an aspiring chef<\/span><\/div>\n

EL 5 DE TIRSO<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

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This lively meeting place<\/strong> was designed in the style of the city\u2019s most typical bars and reclaims the tradition of Madrid\u2019s long-established tabernas<\/em>, reinventing classic dishes with first-rate ingredients. On the menu, you\u2019ll find \u201cpastried\u201d patatas bravas<\/em>, torreznos<\/em>, fabulous croquettes (Iberian ham, steak and baby squid), cod slices and oxtail. They all go wonderfully with a well-poured glass of beer!<\/p>\n

IN-PULSO<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

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Pongamos que hablo de Madrid<\/em> (\u201cLet\u2019s say I\u2019m talking about Madrid\u201d) is not just one of Joaqu\u00edn Sabina\u2019s most famous songs, it\u2019s also the name of the calamari sandwich that the De la Fuente brothers<\/strong> make with citrus alioli<\/em>. But there\u2019s much more on the menu of this restaurant that aims to serve food with heart and soul. Other options with traditional roots include grilled pig\u2019s ear tacos and chicken wings in pepitoria<\/em> almond sauce.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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CASTIZO<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

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\u201cAll cats are grey at night\u201d and \u201cMadriz, everybody\u2019s hom<\/strong>e\u201d are some of the phrases you\u2019ll see on the mirrors at this restaurant, which has six branches throughout the city. On the menu, you\u2019ll need to find the gildas<\/em>, prawn salad, tigres<\/em> and tripe under three different sections whose titles are idiomatic Madrid expressions like M\u00e1s chulo que un ocho<\/em> and Se<\/em> va a armar la marimorena <\/em><\/strong>(which translate as \u201cSuch a show-off\u201d and \u201cAll hell\u2019s about to break loose\u201d).<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In a month steeped in tradition, we review some of the new-style tabernas and bistros with great atmosphere that are putting a modern spin on Madrid\u2019s most celebrated dishes.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":2614,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2599"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2599"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2599\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2615,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2599\/revisions\/2615"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2614"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2599"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2599"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.esmadrid.com\/blog\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2599"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}